Grey, Black, Carling, Pigeon Peas and "Burning the Witch"

Above: Maple Peas

I was lucky enough to attend The Oxford Food Symposium in 2006, where I had a very interesting conversation with Ken Albala about peas. I don’t normally have conversations about peas (and I suspect that neither does Ken), however, these where rather unique and special peas so exceptions have to be made. We were talking about parching peas also known as black peas, grey peas, maple peas, carlings or pigeon peas. These are a type of dried pea that was/is eaten in the North of England and depending on the location it can be an every day dish, a festive dish, a Lenten dish or a pub snack. What interested me at the time is that pigeon peas (Cajanus cajan) are actually a tropical crop so these peas would have to be imported, which seemed like an awful lot of bother, considering many types of peas are actually grown in the UK. Though a rather complicated set of circumstances I happened to have some of these peas on me, when I showed them to Ken he was able to inform me that they were definitely not pigeon peas, but a form of field pea (Pisum sativum var. arvense). This was somewhat of a surprise as pretty much every source gives the species name as C. cajan. I knew that the peas I had where what was usually used to make parched peas, as they were sold as “Peas for Parching” and Lancastrian friends of mine had solemnly confirmed their identity. Luckily another person at the symposium was Laura Mason who is an expert of regional and historical British foods. After talking to Laura she was able to confirm that black peas/parching peas where definitely known as pigeon peas. So if not quite a mystery, there was definitely something very confusing about the peas up North. It is at the point that I decided to do some serious pea research to get to the bottom of it all, this is what I was able to find out.

The peas that I had in my possession where Maple peas, which are as Ken suggested a type of field pea (Pisum sativum var. arvense) and are grown in many locatons around the world. They are also commonly known as “pigeon peas”, not because they are the same species as the tropical pea C. cajan but because they are commonly used as pigeon food in the UK. It seems that food grade pigeon peas are hard to come by, and the vast majority of these peas are raised (not unexpectedly) specifically for pigeon feed, so many people actually buy their Maple peas from livestock food suppliers. The irony is now is that it is relatively easy to obtain one type of tropical pigeon pea, C. cajan, sold as “Gungo” peas (this is a variation on “Congo” and many similar names for the same pea exist). These are sold in most major supermarkets in the ‘Jamaican’ food section and are medium sized ovoid pulse of a grey-brown in colour, so for this reason I have no doubt that they are used in some of the traditional British dishes, such as parched peas by mistake.

Simple enough then, but what exactly are field peas? Well the simple explanation is that they are peas that are grown in the field and harvested after they dry out, rather then being grown as a garden vegetable. Peas are an ancient crop, utilized since the Neolithic period, however fresh garden peas as we know them are a relatively recent development not being widely available in the UK until the beginning of the 18th century. One reason for this was that earlier forms of field pea taste bitter if harvested green and were generally considered inferior, as these quotes by William Rhind in the 19th century indicates:

“….peas are distinguished as garden and field peas. The former being the choice sorts, raised by more careful and expensive culture for the purpose of being eaten green; the latter, inferior chiefly on account of the manner of their being raised, are allowed to come to maturity.”, “They are consumed in great in immense quantities as sea provisions; likewise largely supplied to hospitals, infirmaries, and work-houses, and are familiar to every private family.”

I would imagine that the work-houses and infirmaries where not being supplied with “the choice sorts” of fresh green peas and if you take into account he relative late introduction of the potato, as a staple food idem you can being to imagine that the quantities being consumed in the Britain where “immense” indeed. Understandably, due to the importance of peas as both human and livestock fodder, there was a great proliferation in the numbers of varieties developed, with new strains often being named after the region were they where bred or where they where commonly grown. One such variety is the Rouncival pea which was developed in the 15th century at the Hospital gardens of St. Mary of Roncesvalles in Charing Cross. The importance of the Rouncival peas to the present discussion is that by the end of the 17th century John Wolridge’s Systema Horti-culturaeis is listing the types of Rouncival peas as “grey, green, blew, white and Maple”. So originally, the Maple pea seems to be grown as a garden pea, but as new improved varieties where developed it became less popular and made the transition to the field. One pea variety that may have replaced the Maple as a garden pea was the Marrowfat, which was developed in the 18th century and remains the favored dry pea in most of Britain, especially for the iconic dish of “Mushy peas”. Indeed, one reason very regional consumption of pigeon peas, maybe due to their exclusion from the dried pea niche in some areas such as Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Lincolnshire due to the popularity of marrowfat peas in the form of mushy peas.

So it seems that the Maple pea has quietly been growing in the field since as an important pulse crop, with new varieties being continually developed until the present time. So why are people still consuming Maple peas when improved varieties have existed for several centuries? Based on the 2006 production levels for peas in the UK, it wasn’t because they where readily avaible, as the level of production was 2,000, 35,000, 10,000 and 105,000 tonnes respectively for Maple, Marrowfat, Yellow and Green peas. As far as peas are concerned Maples are relatively rare (and grown almost entirely for pigeon feed), so there be other factors involved. Three main types of dried pea are eaten in the UK, split yellow, marrowfat and Maples, each of the has different cooking properties and texture and flavour. As such they are used in different types of dishes. Unlike the former two types of dried pea, Maples do not tend to disintegrate even after quite prolonged cooking, in part to the thick skin that they retain. As such the range of dishes that they are utilized in has several unique preparations, which are not possible with the other varieties. On caveat is that historically, numerous types of "grey peas" are described, Maples being only one variety. As Maple peas are the only survivor into modern times obviously they will be used for all the dishes described below, but historically it is likely that a range of "grey" peas types were consumed.

So what are these dishes and where are they being consumed? After researching both written and online sources, there seems to be three broad regional categories in the consumption of Maple peas. In the Google Earth Map below I have placed markers on towns where I have found reference to the consumption of Maple peas (named as Maple/pigeon/black/grey or carling peas). Yellow denotes “Parched”, red “Carling” and green “Grey” peas respectively. As you can see using this classification system, produces three distinct regions, with very little or no overlap (note: this is a very small sample size and any additional information would be greatly appreciated). The representative recipes for these regional dishes are:

In the Midlands Black Country grey peas are consumed as “Grey Paze un baircun” (grey peas and bacon). The peas are soaked overnight and cooked with brown onions until soft. Depending on the cut, browned bacon is either added to the peas as they cook or stirred through at the end. Seasonings are salt and pepper.

“Parched peas”, often called “Black Peas” are confined to Lancashire, especially the region local to Preston and Bolton. There are many variations on the basic theme.

-peas a soaked over night and boiled until soft, salt and vinegar added to taste.

-cooked as directed above, when softened place in a single layer in the oven and baked until they swell and burst and seasoned with salt and butter.

While former method is not technically “parching” the peas, it seems much more representative then the latter. According to Peter Brears, in some instances very soft peas sold at fairs and markets was described as “gutter-slush”, due to the appearance of the mixture once the vinegar was added.

Carlings (also known as Carlins) where historically eaten from in the North-East of England, from the North Riding of Yorkshire to the Scottish Borders on the fifth Sunday in Lent. There are many variations in how the peas where prepared.

-peas soaked overnight, boiled until soft, salt and vinegar added to taste.

-cooked as directed above and parched, either in the oven or in a open vessel on a heat source.

-parched as described above and seasoned with brown sugar, butter and rum.

-boiled as described above, then fried in butter or drippings.

-boiled until soft, mixed with breadcrumbs, onions and formed into small cakes or pancakes which where then fried.

-boiled with a ham shank until soft, the meat from the shank being chopped and returned to the pot

While there no longer seems to be much overlap between the regions in which the peas are consumed, there does seem to be some overlap in the way that the peas are prepared. This suggests to me that the dishes are related in some way. While Black Country and Lancashire dishes are now domestic or casual foods, I suspect that they are derived from dishes that were prepared for special occasions or festivals. Some evidence for this is seen in the fact that both Grey Peas and Bacon and Parched/Black peas where a traditional dish on Bonfire Night (5th of November) along with other preparations, such as parkin. While the modern Bonfire Night celebrates the failure/attempt of Catholic conspirators (most famously Guy Fawkes) to blow up the Houses of Parliament in Westminster on the 5th of November 1605, it obviously is styled on older traditions of ritual/festive fire and feasting. While Carling peas are eaten on a completely separate date (5th Sunday in Lent), their consumption was regarded as a festive event. While some authoritories derive the name “Carling” from Care-Sunday (“Care” being an alternative expression for “Passion”), it is also true that in the regions where carling peas are consumed, “Carling” or “Carlin” was a dialect word for “old woman”. Throughout much of Scotland the last of the harvested crop was formed into into an effigy of a woman known as the “old wife/woman” (Cailleach) and burnt on Hallowmass (1st of November), a similar practice in Yorkshire was known as “burning the old witch” and regionally “Carlin” is translated as “Old Woman” or “Witch”. Obviously there is religious symbolism going on here, with the “Carling” representing a female goddess/spirit and or personification of the harvest, but in many cases “Carling” simply means an old woman, although definitely a mysterious and slightly scary old woman as can be seen in the following Robert Burns’ “Tam O Shanter”:

"As Tammie glowr'd, amaz'd, and curious, The mirth and fun grew fast and furious; The piper loud and louder blew; The dancers quick and quicker flew; They reel'd, they set, they cross'd, they cleekit, Till ilka carlin swat and reekit, And coost her duddies to the wark, And linket at it her sark!"

Clearly it would be of great interest to prove a link between consumption of parched peas on the 5th of November, “Carling” peas and the Northern dialect use “Carlin” as an old mysterious woman, connected with pagan fertility worship on the 1st of November. One possible scenario is that the pagan festival was incorporated into the Christian tradition of consuming pulses in Lent in the North East, but retained as a folk tradition as a festive food for around the beginning of November. At the present time the links are far too tenuous to say anything definitive. One thing of interest to note is that in some parts of the North East Carlin peas are also known as “Little Godmothers”, which is suggestive of a connection.

Acknowledgment: I would like to thank Ken Albala for pointing me in the right direction, Caroline Boileau for her help and suggestions on this article. I would also like to thank Laura Mason for the very large amount of advise and discussion that she offered on this topic. Their insights sent me in directions of research that simply would not have occured to me alone.

p.s. Since writing this article I have come across some additional information of interest. Several early 19th century sources mention the practice of "Burning the witch" (as described above), in areas where peas were grown (North Riding of Yorkshire for instance) the last few sheaths of pea plants were collected into a pile (or sometimes formed into an plaited into an effigy) and burnt, the parched peas were eaten with plenty of ale. At this period the practice seems to be a friendly rustic celebration, rather then a serious worship of pagan fertility goddess. However, as the name of the witch in "Burning the Witch" is the "Carling" it doesn't take a great leap of imagination to see how the peas eaten at this harvest festival would be known as "carlings". The practice of eating parched peas for the modern bonfire night seems to be a pretty straight forward transference from the harvest tradition. How the name of the peas eaten for this harvest festival was transfered to the lenten Care Sunday is less clear. On possiblity is that it similarity in the name of "carling" and "Care Sunday", coupled with the appropriate nature of eating peas during Lent, lead to this name being transfered to the Lenten celebration, while parched peas remained more generally associated with Bonfire night. Laura Mason was able to tell me that even at this late date, the "Booths" chain of supermarkets, who retails Maple peas for parching, sells most of these peas around Bonfire Night.

In the case of "Carling" peas, while it may not be possible to demonstrate a direct transferance of the name from the Harvest to the Lenten period, clearly there was some level of association between the two in the minds of people that actually participated in the ritual eating of these peas and it does go a long way to explain why the use of these field peas, rather then improved modern strains has been retained. The next quote is a good example of the association of the Carling "witch" with the peas of Care Sunday.

A Glossary of North Country Words by John Trotter Brocket, William Edward Brockett, 1846

Gy-carling, a sort of mischievous elf; It was formerly a common instruction, on the Borders that on Carling Sunday a person must eat carlings till he was so full that the gy-carling could not get a “grip of his waim”.

Comments

[Roger]

I was raised in Heywood, north of Manchester, in the late 40's/50's. Black peas and parkin, prepared by a variety of mothers, were standard at Guy Fawkes' Night bonfires. As, oddly, were brandy-snaps. Were the brandy-snaps a local tradition, or were they served on this occasion elsewhere in S. Lancashire?

[Adam Balic]

Hi Roger, that is very interesting information about the black peas in Heywood. As it is the first reference from Heywood I will give the town a pin on the map!

Also very interesting infomation about the Brandy snaps. They are part of a wider tradition of wafer eating from the medieval period onward (see link at the bottom for more historical wafers). Ultimately they most likely are derivative of communion wafers.

Eating brandy snaps and simlar wafers were often associated with particular festive dates (especially Mothering Sunday)and were also often known as "fairings" as they were sold at regional fairs. Other names for this type of wafer are Mothering Sunday wafers, Honiton and Ormskirk gingerbread. This is the first bonfire night reference I have seen so that it very interesting in itself. Do you remember if they were flat or curled?

http://www.historicfood.com/Wafer.htm

[Roger Mortimer]

Curled. Am planning to try the Burnley fig pudding recipe over the weekend, before the South Carolina temperature gets too hot for that sort of food - we were already in the upper 80's F a week ago. A little brandy or dark rum will probably help as well.

Back to the black peas. They were clearly accepted as "standard" Bonfire Night fare in Heywood, so I think you will likely find that the black pea belt stretched through Bury and into North Manchester.

[Aidan Evans]

A very interesting article about Carlings. We used to eat them on Passion Sunday instead of green peas. The next day we had them fried up with the cold meat. This year I wished to revive the family custom, but couldn't purchase them anywhere in Newcastle upon Tyne; I tried markets, health food shops, and a Polish grocery shop. To be honest, most of the shopkeepers didn't have a clue what I was taking about. A pity, I think.

[Adam]

Hi Aidan,

the only place that I know of with a regular supply is Booths supermarket on the west coast. You may be able to get them from pet suppliers as they are mostly grown for pigeon food (hence pigeon peas), but as these are not food grade then you may have to pick out stones etc. I take it you are from Newcastle area? How long ago was it that you last ate them in this region?

[Robert]

The Carling Pea which circulates among gardeners in the UK looks like an old medieval field pea. The seeds are brown and speckled, and look quite unlike modern green peas.

[Adam Balic]

Robert, there is a Carling pea mentioned in gardening circles as going back for centuries, but I'm unsure if this is actually the case. Speckled field peas are still an important field crop in many countries and new types are still being developed. For instance that strains "Courier" and "Crown" are relatively recent developments in New Zealand for instance.

Also "Carling" doesn't every seem to have been a specific variety, more whatever field pea that was used to make carling peas.

Certainly when I have grown commercial maple peas bought at Booths supermarket in Keswick, they match the description of the so called medieval Carling pea that I have seen described.

[Kate]

My earliest encounter with Parched Peas was in Preston.
Firstly as a child on Autumn evenings around Halloween and Bonfire Night.
In the 1980's a Guy used to come into the Pub in the evening with a basket containing small polysterene pots of Parched Peas and Sea food snacks. He remained in good humour when he asked if you wanted 'Parched Peas?' and someone would always suggest 'Give 'em a drink then'
Booths sell Maple Peas for parching.

[Adam Balic]

Hi Kate,

wonder if my friend that first put me onto parched peas had met the same guy, as they told a very similar story about 1980's Preston.

[ian buck]

parched peas has young boys1948/50 we used to pay one penny for a triangler paper bag full to take to the star pictures saturday afternoons in blackburn remember at that time sweets were on ration happy days

[Peter]

I have tried to cook black peas for the last few years just befoe bonfire night but cannot get them to go soft.
Is there a special way to cook.

[Rebecca Taylor]

I have a picture of my gran stirring a huge pot of black peas in Bolton in 1948 for a huge neighbourhood bonfire which is a tradition my family have continued. We have black peas, parkin, toffee apples, potato pie and treacle toffee every year, just as my gran had in the background of her picture back then!

[Sean]

Hi excellent article, I live in Bolton and have had black peas and parkin on bonfire night all my life until last night I assumed everyone enjoyed such delights. I asked someone from York if they had any black peas on bonfire night he thought I was mad so I asked some more people, no one had heard of them ,amazing.

[Caroline]

Agreed; a great article. My memories are classic North East: Carlin peas with ham on Passion Sunday. As a child 50s/60s we were not 'allowed' to use 'bad language' but revelled in the rhyme 'Carlin Sunday, Fartin' Monday' - a reference to the after effects of so many dried peas!

[mike]

As a child 7ish in a place called southmoor nr. stanley co.durham i ate carling peas they were in a dish cold covered with water.I was staying with my maternal grandmother,she was Irish i'mjust short of 77 now.

[Eric Prescott]

I as a boy came to Canada in 1948. Parched pea were often sold in Blackpool on the sands. They were sold in little paper cone shaped containers.I just tried to make some here with peas brought back from England by my brother. they don't want to split. soaked them overnight.
, boiled and let simmer and put in oven to parch but didn't split. any suggestions? Eric

[Pauline Giddins]

I remember the 'Black Pea Man' coming around on an adapted bike (I think) selling black peas. I lived in Castleton but he travelled throughout the Rochdale and surrounding areas. He had a bell, rang it and shouted - always a favourite around November 5th but he used to sell throughout winter. He was called Mr White I think and a real Rochdale chararacter. I used to know his daughter in the 70's.

[simon]

bought myself some black peas ready to soak overnight and have some on firework night, i cant wait i,m from bolton and was brought up eating black peas every bonfire night lot of the local greengrocers
sell them around here

[Lucie]

I live in Norfolk now and have had my sister trekking around to get me some black peas. The peas cost 60p and the postage £4.00!

[Pete]

I live in Preston & I make parch peas (black peas) every bonfire night, I see a few people here saying they can't get them to go soft, one thing I always do is soak my peas for upto 24hrs with some bicarbonate of soda, make sure you rinse well after soaking, the bi carb seems to help the peas soften a little, but I think the trick is to just boil them slowly for a few hours, also people say they can only get them in pet stores if you do buy them from a pet store make sure they have not got linseed in them as a lot of the pigeon peas in pet stores do have linseed in them, mine are still soaking as I type this message another 5or6 hours & they will be in the pan also great with a little chilli powder & mint sauce is good too. Enjoy your peas everyone

[Pete]

I should of posted this earlier, but I over did it when buying my parch peas again I do it every year but ive got a 7lb bag left over :-)))))

[Gloria]

There is a stall on the corner of Preston Flag Market who still sells hot parched peas all year round. You can season them with vinegar provided.
This year is of course Preston Guild Year (once every 20 years) so what better time to celebrate this heirloom pea variety than with a cup of the parched kind.

[Alan Stansfield]

Iam 85 and as a child in the 1930s we had black peas every bonfire night and whenever a travelling fair came to Rochdale)my hone town).Mymother and my wife soak the black peas overnight in water with a spoonful of bicarbonateof soda.THe folling morning rinse the peas in cleanwater. place peas in apan and coverwithwatere and simmer until soft and mushy Mother used to add a ham shank to the peas which was eaten with the peas .My wife adds lambs liver to thicken the gravy. the peas are then served with salt totast and vinegar.these recipes have been in our families for generations. Ialso add that the fairground people added a ham shank to the peas

[pd]

My first memory of parched peas is from the traveling fair that visited Preston at whitsuntide, then my Nan making them at home for Bonfire night along with bonfire(treacle) toffee.
Yes, in the 1980's a "Kershaws Super Cockle" man used to visit Preston pubs in the evening, with his wicker basket of seafood snacks but the most popular item was cold parched peas, served with salt and the obligatory dash of malt vinegar! I no longer live in Preston so no idea if this goes on these days.
Phil

[Chris, Lancashire]

Hot cooked parched peas can still be had on Bury market.

[john snowden]

All the comments remind of my childhood but as I now live in France you never see the black wonderful pea.
So were oh were is there a supplier who will post them so that I can once again try to recapture a little of my miss spent youth

[Sue Arnfield]

Hi I'm presently soaking Black Peas bought in Glossop Market Hall, I was born in Ashton but grew up in Bardsley, Oldham. Black Peas were as already mentioned part of our Bon Fire Night Supper, or after collecting 'Bonti wood'. We still have them in cups served with white pepper and vinegar, my children / family love them.

[Bee]

I have cooked 'black peas' every year on Bonfire Night since childhood and it always amazes me when I ask friends from other towns if they're making them...generally the response is 'What are black peas?'
Friends in Rochdale, Wigan & Bolton know about them yet in parts of Manchester they have no idea; its so strange.
I buy my 'black peas' from Bolton Market. Several greengrocers sell them there dried in bags ready for soaking. Also, nearer to Bonfire Night certain vendors sell them ready soaked. They also sell them on Bury Market.
Finally, if you want to try them ready cooked 'Ye Olde Pasty Shoppe' in Bolton sell them. Generally, around autumn time they start selling them...yum. A hot cup of black peas on a cold day is the best :)
P.S. To achieve soft peas soak for at least 24hours in plenty of water and 2 tsp of bicarbonate of soda. Remember to rinse well before cooking to remove the bicarb taste.